Claude Bourguignon discussing soil life & microorganisims
Just got back from Zurich where I was cordially invited by Angiolino Maule of La Biancara. Not only does Maule make fantastic wines and value prices, he is also acting president of the VinNatur organization. Day one was spent mostly attending a seminar with guest speakers such as Isabelle Legeron MW, Lydia & Claude Bourguignon, Federico Giotto, Terje Meling and Jonathan Nossiter (Mondovino). The day was interesting and long, but luckily concluded with an open tasting with 98 natural wine makers and their wines.
This is one of the reasons we attended the event, right?
All in all, there are not many tastings where so many amazing producers and wines can be found in one place. Overall the quality of the producers was high, especially in my opinion, the producers from Slovenia. In any case, here is my quick rundown of the producers I felt showed promise, and were in my opinion the “ones to watch”
Davide Spillare showed real promise with Dolce Racrei Sparkling Passito
24-year old Davide Spillare from Gambellara, Italy (Veneto). Worked under the guidance of Angiolino Maule, so it wasn’t surprising that his wines were not only good, but showed real depth and freshness without being “over the top” or overripe. His whites (which I actually preferred) where made with very little sulfur added and his red was made completely without. His Garganega-based sparkling pasito Dolce Racrei (which I have sold for about a year now at Jacob’s) is just delicious. Dried hay and fruit with a crisp acidic background and slightly smokey finish is perhaps one of the most interesting dessert wines I have tasted.
Next were the wines of Bodegas Bruno Ruiz (Toledo). These wines have been in Norway for a few years now, but for every year they get better and better. The whites have a depth you don’t often find at the super-value price levels they are at. More and more of their wines are being made without the addition of sulfur indicating that their fruit quality has to be fantastically healthy. And their labeling is improving, or rather becoming more fun to look at..
The wines of Jean-Marc Espinasse of Domaine Rouge-Bleu from the Southern Rhône showed amazing fruit quality and depth. Yes, alcohol levels where high here, but still remained fresh. We tasted a very-old Grenache wine that was just so deep and delicious. He also splashed me an experimental, unlabeled Nerello Mascaslese that he was making on Mt. Etna. This also showed real promise, but a tad too much on the oak for my palate. Oh, and nice labels as well. these are actually what got me to his table to begin with
Dorado pictured here with Alice Feiring
Next were the wines of Marcial Dorado from Portugal. I don’t have any wines from Portugal on my wine list. Not because there isn’t some quality wine in Portugal, but because I haven’t found any wines that I really like and that have the philosophy I search for in a wine producer. These wines were not only being made naturally, but again showed that real quality of fruit I expect in a wine, a living wine. Super-juicy, drinkable, low alcohol, deep and no oak. No oak in a wine is hard enough to find, but in Spain and Portugal even harder. The Alvarinho-based whites were especially interesting to me.
For me the highlight of the event was of course the wines of Frank Cornelissen whose wines never stop impressing me for their expressiveness. So deep and pure. I still have yet to taste wines like these. Love
Overall, the only criticism I had of VinNatur is on the use of barriques by many producers. There is still way too much barriques use for my palate and I wished that wine makers who prefer using oak, would use larger and older format wood so that their incredible fruit would shine through
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La Biancara di Angiolino Maule
Contrà Biancara 14
Gambellara (Vi)
ITALIATel: +39 (0) 444 444 244 Annual production: 35,000 – 45,000 bottles
Angiolino Maule owns 11 hectares (& rents 2ha more) of vineyards on volcanic soil between the provinces of Vicenza and Verona, an extension of the Soave foothills in the Veneto, in North Eastern Italy. The Veneto is a region traditionally famous for the Soave white wines and the dark, rich and typically hugely alcoholic Amarone della Valpolicella wines. But Angiolino is traditional in another way, working the vineyards as naturally as possible without the use of any synthetic or chemical additives, industrial fertilizers or any other artificial soil treatments. Rather, he practices biodynamics and uses only natural preparations in the vineyards.
Angiolino's vines on volcanic soil in the Veneto
Angiolino’s philosophy is carried through to the cellar where his wines spontaneously ferment with only indigenous yeasts. He doesn’t control temperature during fermentation, he uses no enzymes nor sulfur and bottles without fining or filtering. To quote Angiolino “The big difference between the majority of vine growers and my vine growing is my great respect for nature and that means no compromise. I accept and defend what the land gives me without correcting, adding or subtracting to get more. In the cellar I think the difference is even greater, some producers with the excuse of protecting or enhancing came to use six to eight chemicals added to the must or the wine, I disagree”
Angiolino's Garganega grapes air-drying for his Recioto wine
Angiolino makes both red and white wines. His whites are made with the Garganega and Trebbiano grapes. The reds are made with Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot mostly, but also with the Tocai Rosso (Grenache). He is also one of the few in the world who make a natural sweet wine. A wine made with 100% dried Garganega grapes that is fermented with only indigenous yeasts, not filtered or fined and not sulfured. This Recioto is a magnificent accompaniment to cakes and ice cream.
The wine for this tasting note is 100% Merlot.. Yes, Merlot. But, not the jammy, silky 14.5% Merlot we got bombarded with in California in the 80’s & 90’s. This 12.5% Merlot is more reminiscent of something more rustic, something like you might find on the right bank in Bordeaux. No, this is not a Bordeaux, but it’s not your California Merlot Either….read on..
The Merlot grapes for this Rosso Masieri wine come from a single vineyard at the foot of the Gambellara hills. The fermentation occurs in open-top wooden vats with 3-4 punch-downs a day. After the 12-15 day fermentation, the skins are left to macerate with the juice for a further 10 days or so. The wine is then racked to separate the liquid from the must. Then wine is transferred to steel where it rests until bottling. This wine was bottled May 21, 2010.
Date Tasted: July 29th, 2010 20:30 (8:30pm)
Appearance: dark purple with pink edges – very young
Nose: Black currants and green leaves, plums, morel cherries & black berries. Dark fruit dominated. Although I don’t really find any red fruit, the wine smells very fresh and vibrant. Some intriguing green notes, like fresh green peas. Red apples start to emerge at 21:15
Palate: A slight tingle as the wine hits the tongue, but not CO2, rather minerals that dance on the tongue. Dark fruit dominant with some green notes which I attribute to more of a salty, minerally component. Medium plus intense fruit with medium level tannins. The medium plus acidity carries the wine to a long, salty, mineral finish with slightly dry, bitter tones. Extremely well structured and balanced with well-integrated alcohol. Slight pepper notes also found after a half an hour.
The strong points of this wine are the superb balance and structure. I particularly like the salty, mineral finish which I have come to expect in Maule’s wines. I would have to say that this wine is extremely delicious and drinkable. This is not your ordinary Merlot, rather a true expression of Merlot growing on volcanic soil in the Veneto. And a bargain at around 165 Norwegian Kroner. Oh, did I mention that this wine was mineral? 