While many restaurants in Norway feature traditional Norwegian Christmas food, at Jacob’s Bar & Kjøkken we do things differently. Our concept for the Christmas menu is the same as usual – simple, fresh and creative food. The wines I have selected to pair with these dishes also don’t steer away from my usual focus on Biodynamic and Natural wines. Please note that since we only use the freshest of ingredients and small wine producers, the courses and the wines (and vintages) can change slightly. So, without further ado, here’s the Christmas menu and the wines: (click on thumbnails to enlarge photos and make yourself hungry and!)
Apéritif
The Starters
Sunchoke Soup with Langoustine Ravioli
paired with Domaine Bott-Geyl Riesling Les Éléments 2007 – Alsace, France
Terrine of Smoked Ham Hock and Fois Gras, Quince and Fig Chutney
paired with Battenfeld-Spanier Hohen-Sülzer Riesling 2007 – Rheinhessen, Germany
Brandade of Smoked Cod, Raw Marinated Vegetables and Crispy Bacon
paired with Weingut Fritsch Grüner Veltliner Steinberg 2008 – Wagram, Austria
Pigs Head Porchetta, Pickled Beetroots and Tarragon Mayonnaise
paired with Camillo Donati Malvasia Secco 2008 (lightly sparkling) – Emilia Romagna, Italy
Main Courses
Baked Cod, Potato and Garlic Mash, Pickled Onion, Gravy
paired with Vittorio Bera Arcese 2007 – Piemonte, Italy
Pan Fried Tusk, Ragout of Lentils and Ox Tail, Mayonnaise with Herbs
paired with Frank Cornelissen Rosso del Contadino5 2007 – Mt. Etna, Sicily
Lightly Salted Pork Ribs, Pickled Cabbage, Pork Sausage and Spicy Gravy
Paired with Arianna Occhipinti SP68 2008 – Vittoria, Sicily
Lamb with Herbs, Root Vegetables and Creamed Pepper Sauce
paired with Domaine Le Mazel Cuvée Raoul 2007 – Southern Rhône, France
Dessert
Caramelized Bread & Butter Pudding, Apple Sorbet
Paired with Vittorio Bera Moscato d’Asti 2008 – Piemonte, Italy
Dark Chocolate Cream, Orange Salad & Granité
paired with Giovanni Almondo Brachetto Fosso della Rosa 2008 – Piemonte, Italy
Locally made Brie from Ostegaarden, Stilton, Chutney, Fruit Bread
Brie paired with Silvano Follador Cartizze 2008 – Veneto, Italy
Stilton paired with Pierre Frick Gewurztraminer Steinert Grand Cru 2003 – Alsace, France
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I had the opportunity to check out the Gruppo Vini Veri, Vino Vino Vino 2009 gathering at Villa Boschi in Isola della Scala, Verona Italy last week. I had never been to this gathering before, so I really didn’t know what to expect. Although some things impressed me, I was also disappointed by others. Of course I didn’t get to taste everything, but from my sampling, here’s my personal feedback.
First, the positive. Many exciting wines coming out of Sicily. These Sicilians, especially around Mount Etna, are delivering fresh and interesting wines from indigenous grapes. White wine grapes like the Carricante and red wine grapes from the Nerello family. What really impressed me the most about these wines was the freshness, something you are seeing more of in well-made Sicilian Wines. Many of these wines were natural, without the addition of Sulphur Dioxide, no filtering and thankfully, no oak. Many of the wines were fermented/stored in cement, steel or amphora’s.
It was also nice to see many “orange wines”, white wines made using maceration techniques (letting the grape must sit with the grape skins for some days) rendering some white wines with a more orange-like hue. Although some of these were exciting, fresh and well-made, many were over-macerated, overly tannic and bitter. Just because this old wine making technique is coming back into fashion, doesn’t mean you should be (over) doing it! Listen up!
Then, there were too many wines from the region of Tuscany. It seemed that upwards of 25% percent of the producers at this gathering were from Tuscany. Although there were some interesting (and excellent) wines from Tuscany, I found most to be too similar and un-interesting.
The most disappointing thing for me, however, was the shortage of non-Italian wine makers. I understand that Italy has more vineyards being farmed organically (up to 5 times) than other European wine-making countries and that we were in Verona, Italy, but I would have liked to have seen more French, Spanish, Portuguese and German (etc.) wine makers at this gathering.
Overall, I can see that producing natural wine is becoming fashionable and trendy. I am glad that at least natural products are becoming trendy and fashionable, but I felt that there were too many wine makers making natural wine because it was the fashionable thing to do. Thankfully, you can taste who these copycat producers were, and they were not good.
I would like to end this entry on a positive note by saying that I was happy to meet some wine-makers whom I have had some contact with both personally and of course through their wines:
Drink more naturally made wines and wake up the next day feeling fresh!
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