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A brief description of this sake is necessary here. This sake is made by Terada Honke according to ancient methods (bodaimoto). Everything is done by hand. Ordinary table rice (Koshihikari) is used to make this sake, not sake rice. While most rice used to make sake is first polished to remove 30-50% (sometimes more) of the grain, Terada only removes 8-10%! I am told my a number of reliable sources that he me also be the only Toji (sake brewer – yes, sake is brewed) who doesn’t add a man-made yeast called Koji. This means he may be the only Toji to make sake spontaneously. It’s an all natural sake – it’s an all natural method. You could in theory do this at home, and this is why for many years, the Japanese government forbade this method of production. this sake has not been diluted or pasteurized and for this needs to be stored at the cold temperature of 4-5°C.
The sake is cloudy and has a yellow hue, much like lemonade. the smell explodes out of the glass. Lemons and rice are the dominant aromas. When I first tasted this sake, I was reminded of the time I first tasted Frank Cornelissen’s Rosso del Contadino about 6 years ago. Not because this sake tasted or reminded me of the wine, but because when the sake hit my mouth, I had a revelation. After more than 20 years drinking sake, I felt that for the first time I truly understood sake. It was slightly sparkling, like some natural wines when they first hit the glass. These bubbles soon disappeared. What struck me most about this sake apart from the intense mouth feel, is the balance between a subtle sweetness and an amazing acidic structure which gave this sake a certain freshness I had not experienced in any sake before. And of course, a slight “wild” edge and funkiness that so many natural wines have. wow! I am sold. (apologies for the lack of picture of the sake on it’s own – I some how deleted a bunch of photo’s from my phone before I was able to download them. If you click on the photo, you should get a larger version. To the left of the bottle you will spot a glimpse of this sake in a glass)
THE FOOD:
Fresh mackerel egg, radish, pickled turnip, herring roe dill cream and potato saladThis was the first time i used a sake in a food pairing. What?! Comon’ now, we are not in California! We are in Bergen, an overall very conservative city in a conservative (not in every way) country. In fact, it wasn’t until around 6-9 months ago that some interesting sake’s were imported into Norway; for the first time.
The sweetness in the sake contrasted beautifully with the pickled turnips and the overall structure and strength of the sake worked well with this oily fish. An interesting combination of flavors freshened up by this acidic sake. Yum
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THE FOOD:
Slow cooked pork neck Tomato salad, capers and onion Pork juice and fresh herbsWhat? Serving a Beaujolais Nouveau in June?! I’ve done stranger things, but I have to tell you that this Nouveau needed some time in bottle after release (released in Norway in March of this year). Gorgeous, healthy fruit give this wine an incredible structure that stands up nicely with this course. Ripe acidity keeps up with the pork fat and the mild tannins clean up nicely. A really surprisingly good pairing, and just right for Spring!
]]>A milder version of the classic, cialis roasted, slightly smoked chipotle pairs well with the earthiness found in the Cot. The wine has just enough tannic structure to support the fat on the veal rib. An interesting dish that works very well overall with the wine.
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While many restaurants in Norway feature traditional Norwegian Christmas food, at Jacob’s Bar & Kjøkken we do things differently. Our concept for the Christmas menu is the same as usual – simple, fresh and creative food. The wines I have selected to pair with these dishes also don’t steer away from my usual focus on Biodynamic and Natural wines. Please note that since we only use the freshest of ingredients and small wine producers, the courses and the wines (and vintages) can change slightly. So, without further ado, here’s the Christmas menu and the wines: (click on thumbnails to enlarge photos and make yourself hungry and!)
Sunchoke Soup with Langoustine Ravioli
paired with Domaine Bott-Geyl Riesling Les Éléments 2007 – Alsace, France
Terrine of Smoked Ham Hock and Fois Gras, Quince and Fig Chutney
paired with Battenfeld-Spanier Hohen-Sülzer Riesling 2007 – Rheinhessen, Germany
Brandade of Smoked Cod, Raw Marinated Vegetables and Crispy Bacon
paired with Weingut Fritsch Grüner Veltliner Steinberg 2008 – Wagram, Austria
Pigs Head Porchetta, Pickled Beetroots and Tarragon Mayonnaise
paired with Camillo Donati Malvasia Secco 2008 (lightly sparkling) – Emilia Romagna, Italy
Baked Cod, Potato and Garlic Mash, Pickled Onion, Gravy
paired with Vittorio Bera Arcese 2007 – Piemonte, Italy
Pan Fried Tusk, Ragout of Lentils and Ox Tail, Mayonnaise with Herbs
paired with Frank Cornelissen Rosso del Contadino5 2007 – Mt. Etna, Sicily
Lightly Salted Pork Ribs, Pickled Cabbage, Pork Sausage and Spicy Gravy
Paired with Arianna Occhipinti SP68 2008 – Vittoria, Sicily
Lamb with Herbs, Root Vegetables and Creamed Pepper Sauce
paired with Domaine Le Mazel Cuvée Raoul 2007 – Southern Rhône, France
Caramelized Bread & Butter Pudding, Apple Sorbet
Paired with Vittorio Bera Moscato d’Asti 2008 – Piemonte, Italy
Dark Chocolate Cream, Orange Salad & Granité
paired with Giovanni Almondo Brachetto Fosso della Rosa 2008 – Piemonte, Italy
Locally made Brie from Ostegaarden, Stilton, Chutney, Fruit Bread
Brie paired with Silvano Follador Cartizze 2008 – Veneto, Italy
Stilton paired with Pierre Frick Gewurztraminer Steinert Grand Cru 2003 – Alsace, France
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Weingut Stefan Langmann Schilcher Klassik 2008
Weststeiermark, no rx Austria
11.50% Alcohol
3.8 grams/liter residual sugar
9.0 grams/liter residual acidity!
Price in Norwegian Kroner 114,- ($17.50)
The Food:
Lightly poached fresh Mackerel
Lightly pickled cucumber
Fresh cucumber and cucumber gel
Løyrom caviar from Sweden
Fresh dill and dill mousse
Peas
]]>Event: Stavanger, Norway Vinfest 2009
Restaurant: Bølgen & Moi
Date: Thursday April 23, 2009 19:00
Host: Luca Roagna and Best Buys
In my opinion, Luca Roagna is a rising star in Piemonte, Italy. And I’m not alone in believing this as his wines are garnering a lot of interest in other parts of the world as well. I was very impressed with him and his philosophy after visiting him at his estate in Paglieri (Barbaresco), Italy in November of 2008. I am equally impressed if not more so with his wines. They are immediately approachable, yet are so well structured and well made that they will endure the test of time and will age gracefully.
Luca is extremely passionate. His eyes light up when you ask him questions about his wines. He is such a purist. He approaches his viticulture and “winemaking” in as a natural way as possible. Luca does not use chemical nor organic fertilizers. All of this is reflected in his wines. They best way to describe them is super clean, precise with focused fruit. Extremely well-structured, balanced and elegant. His signature is his terroir, which he allows his wines to express beautifully.
Luca is also as down to earth and personable. He is a blast to hang out with and really knows how to enjoy himself. I look forward to the next time we meet Luca!
As an aperitif, we started with a wine that isn’t currently available in Norway. A Langhe Bianco with 5-6 days skin contact giving the wine a full-golden yellow color bordering on orange. The wine was made using 90% Chardonnay and 10% Nebbiolo. Yes, you are reading this correctly, 10% Nebbiolo and yes, vinified white. Naturally, only indigenous yeast is used. This wine was made in a slightly oxidative style but was extremely fresh and elegant with mild tannins, elegant acidity and a medium long finish.
****
FIRST COURSE
PAIRED WITH
Comments: 35 days maceration. Unfiltered wine with clean, focused fruit and feminine, but firm tannins.
****
SECOND COURSE
PAIRED WITH
Comments: 35 days maceration, 4 years in large Botti and 2 in bottle. The orange peel notes found in the wine worked extremely well with the orange-butter sauce. A very open and approachable wine made entirely of Nebbiolo. More like a Barbaresco then a typical Langhe Rosso.
****
THIRD COURSE
PAIRED WITH
Comments: good color depth with a very slight browning around the edge. Very classic Nebbiolo aromas – floral, cherries (amarena cherry). About 65 days maceration and 5 years in large Botti. Even the asparagus worked surprisingly well with the wine. A very masculine Barbaresco.
****
FOURTH COURSE
PAIRED WITH
Comments: Average age of the vines is 40 years. About 85 days maceration. 5 years in large Botti and 2 years in bottle. Dark, sour cherries. Elegant and feminine.
****
FIFTH COURSE
PAIRED WITH
Comments: About 70 days maceration. Bottled in November of 2008. Quite open, but in my opinion it needs about 10 more years just to start stretching it’s legs. At around 350,- Norwegian Kroner ($50), it’s a real bargain.
****
I will end this post by saying that it’s producers like Luca that really inspire me and spark an infinite passion in me for wine. This is the reason I do what I do and love it! Thanks Luca!
Clemens Busch Pündricher Marienburg Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2004 ***
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
12.5% Alcohol
7.4 grams/liter residual sugar
Residual Acidity N/A
Price in Norwegian Kroner 217,- ($31.75)
The Food:
Citrus and Soy cured halibut
Soy crutons
Lemon Grass foam
Baby chives
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Georg Breuer Spätburgunder 2005
Rheingau, link Germany
100% Pinot Noir
13% Alcohol
0.5 grams/liter residual sugar
Residual acidity N/A
Price in Norwegian Kroner: 186,-
The Food:
Gourmet pizza topped with
Thinly sliced fresh figs
Orange marinated fresh fennel
Dried cranberries
Manchego cheese
Thinly sliced duck breast
(No sauce on homemade pizza dough!)
Madeira, ed Portugal
100% Boal
Aged 130 years in barrels
19.5% Alcohol
The food:
“Fyrstekake” Norwegian Royalty Cake
Main ingredients: Flour, buy eggs, sugar, butter
almonds and in this particular version – chocolate
to help match the Madeira
Yum!
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Strohmeier Ganz á Siassa Schilcher Beerenauslese 2007
Weststeiermark, adiposity Austria
100% Blauer Wildbacher
10.5% Alcohol
140 grams/liter residual sugar
12.7 grams/liter residual acidity
Price in Norwegian Kroner: (37, for sale 5cl) 249, healing –
The food:
Valrhona Chocolate Savarin
Blood orange mousse and foam
Strohmeier caramelized pear topped with
Strohmeier caramelized oatmeal and estragon leaf
Pear Sorbet
Blood orange caramel for decoration
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