Right now I’m sitting in the garden of a great beer pub in Krakow called Strefa Piwa (Beer Zone).
After living in Bergen, where it rains about 300 days a year, I’m loving the weather. It’s 6:30 in the evening and I’m sitting outdoors in shorts. It’s warm and more importantly, it’s dry.
To make things better, I’ve learned to appreciate beer, like the Mikkeller IPA Citra I’m sipping on now. Extremely aromatic. Fresh apricots and peaches fill my nostrils, with hints of licorice and flowers. Structured, fruity and fresh; even at 7+% abv. Too drinkable. Is this the way to describe a beer? I’m not sure, but that’s the way I describe a beer!
I just can’t help myself- I’ve been here three days in a row just to have this beer because once the keg is empty, that’s it – for now.
And I can’t complain about the price either. It’s not uncommon in Bergen to find Mikkeller’s beers for 90-100 NOK, whilst here I’m paying a teeny tiny 25 NOK for a half liter! Like I said, life is good! And of course I would draw these comparisons, it’s only natural since I DO work in Norway and live in Poland.
All this said, at the back of my mind is my upcoming trip back home to California. Seems like only yesterday since my last time, yet it’s been 5 1/2 years since my last trip home. Will I feel like a foreigner? Have things changed? Very likely both and yet I look forward to the trip none the less.
I look forward to introducing my wife to my old home, my childhood, my friends. I look forward to seeing old friends. I look forward to seeing family. I look forward to great food. I look forward to sun, sun, sun.
Happy summer to all my friends and family- see you all in August
Thank you all for this great year! Happy new year and see you in 2012!
Vinosseur’s 2011 from vinosseur on Vimeo.
]]>I met my wife on January 1st, 2010, we were engaged 4 months later on May 8th, and we got married July 9th, 2011. The ceremony was a beautiful one that took place in Tarnów, Poland amongst family and close friends. The reception that followed was a blast and thanks to some close friends, fantastic wines were enjoyed (many of which were a surprise).
Thank you for the 12 Magnums of 2010 Munjebel Bianco. Thank you for the 6 magnums of 2010 Felice Nebbiolo. Thank you for the Asinoi, Lia Vi and Mosto Parzialmente Fermentato. Thank you for the Grüner, Blaufrankisch and the Graupert. Thank you for the Flon Flon and the Anne François Joseph.
Thank you family. Thank you friends. But most of all, thank you Magdalena.
I will be on a brief pause for the coming weeks to celebrate my new life with my new wife. Don’t worry, I will be back before you know it with more short stories, tasting notes and whatever makes me smile.
Cheers!
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We would like to invite you to experience an evening of beautiful music and to taste some amazing wines, drugs especially selected to fit the music. You will hear interesting stories from the wine world and you will have the possibility to enjoy Bacchus’ drink accompanied by live flute music.
Sommelier Joseph Di Blasi will introduce you to 3 great wines and Magdalena Kolodziejczyk, treatment flutist from the Philharmonic Orchestra in Krakow, sickness will present pieces from classical music repertoire.
Event place: Jacob’s Bar & Kjøkken Date: Sunday, August 1st 2010, 20:00 (8pm) Entrance fee: 100 NOK**Wine is not included in the entrance fee
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This video was recorded on the 23rd of April at Café Herman in Leikanger, Norway. It was recorded with my old Nokia, so forgive me, primarily for the audio quality. If English is your language, then skip to 1’25” in the video (the first 1’20” is in Norwegian) for the English intro and dedication.
The artist: Robert Smith-Hald. Born in West Chester County, Pennsylvania into a secluded, nearly self-sufficient religious community called Camphill. Robert’s upbringing, according to him, has definitely shaped his relationship to music quite keenly. His lyrics and melodies reflect who he is and where he comes from. Please also visit his MySpace page.
The wine: 2006 Domaine Le Mazel Cuvée Raoul – Gérald & Jocelyne Oustric have been making wine in the Southern Rhône without the use of sulfur since 1998. The 2006 is a blend of Syrah and Grenache (approx 70/30) spontaneously fermented, macerated for 30 days, stored in cement and then bottled without filtration, fining or the addition of sulfur. One of my favorite wines and one of the most stable natural wines I know. The wine improves for up to 10 days after opening and doesn’t begin to fade until around day 18. I love it!
A very sponty nose with aromas of dark berries lifted by red fruit, farmyard and just enough volatility to make me want to jump up out of my chair and dance! Fantastic concentration and structure, gripping tannins and enough freshness to help get the bottle down in minutes. The 12-12.5% alcohol makes it also quite food friendly.
Enjoy the video!
Event: Bressan Wine Maker DinnerRestaurant: Jacob’s Bar & Kjøkken
Date: Saturday, March 13th 2010
Host: Fulvio Bressan, Vinosseur, 213 W Wine Imports
I have done a producer profile on Bressan in past posts, but nothing I have written could have prepared me for such a down to earth warm person such as Fulvio. Energetic and outgoing, Fulvio entertained everyone at our table and the other tables as we made our rounds to introduce him to our guests. I thought I was going to have my work cut out for me with the translating from Italian, but it turns out that Fulvio’s grasp of English is very good, making my job a little easier. The turn out was better than anticipated with a completely full restaurant with even a few tables being turned.. for quaint little Bergen, this is quite a feat!
Fulvio speaking to some dinner guests
Bressan not only entertained the guests’ questions, he even managed to sneak over to the bar guests who stopped in after the local football (soccer) game and befriend them! Behind this outgoing, down to earth person, lies an amazing wine maker, even more amazing is his approach to viticulture. Although he is as natural as he can be, their is a lot of science going on here, especially when it comes to harvest. The effect that the harvest of healthy grapes has on the final wine is tremendous! In fact, harvesting even one day “too soon” or one day “too late” can make a significant difference on the final wine. (click on the images below to enlarge)
Notes from a genius wine maker I - Fulvio Bressan 2010/03/13
Notes from a genius wine maker II - Fulvio Bressan 2010/03/13
Fulvio spoke of how much one or two days effect the maturity of the grape, what climate does to the maturation curve (sugar versus phenolic maturity), volatile acidity relating to date of harvest, and hours of light exposure effecting grape maturity. He even spent a few minutes discussing oxygen exchange differences between different size oak barrels, the smaller the barrel, the thinner the wall diameter, the greater the oxygen exchange (and oak influence). The most important thing to understand here is that most of his science, and the most important part of it, is out in the vineyards – especially when it comes to the exact date to harvest – probably the single most important. He also mentioned that the only thing he does out in the vineyards is the copper and sulfur treatment, but never after the 31st of July. And, he never harvests before it has rained, so that the grapes can be rinsed.
Enough said, now on to the dinner and the pairings!
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AMUSE BOUCHE
Yogurt Sorbet with Citrus and Olive on Toast
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FIRST COURSE
Porchetta, Apple & Apricot Compote with Lime, Radicchio Rosso
PAIRED WITH
2006 Verduzzo Friulano
Comments: The delicate dried apricot aromas in the wine matched perfectly with the compote.
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SECOND COURSE
Baked Saithe with Blackened Leek, Crispy Spring Onion, Artichokes and Scallop and Mushroom filled Ravioli
PAIRED WITH
1999 Cru Pignol
Comments: When I spoke to Fulvio on the phone about pairing his Pignol with a fish dish, he thought we were crazy. When he tasted the dish, he was stunned! The combination of fish, burned leeks and mushrooms created the link between the wine and the dish.
****
THIRD COURSE
Confit of Duck Leg, Green Lentils with Fried Chicken Liver with Bayleaf Sauce
PAIRED WITH
2004 Schioppettino
Comments: The pepper notes in this wine and good acidity paired especially well with the green lentils and liver
FOURTH COURSE
Locally made Jørnsberg Cheese with Tomato Sorbet and Brioche
PAIRED WITH
2001 Ego (50% Schioppettino 50% Cabernet Franc)
Comments: Although I rarely use a dry red wine with cheese, this wine was great with the cheese and tomato sorbet (slightly sweet). We got mixed reviews on this dish. Many guests expected the “dessert” to be something sweet, rather this was an Umami filled dish which was for many of us at our table, one of the best pairings of the meal.
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(I am sorry for the quality of the photo’s in this post. Since I am not a photographer, I should really apologize at the beginning of every post, but the photos in this post are especially low quality – blamed on the settings being incorrect on my “wonderful” camera phone. Oh, and although this post seems long, it’s mostly full of pictures to entertain you)
Tuesday November 3rd, 2009
Our goal was to reach Jean-Pierre Robinot sometime in the afternoon, but when visiting with natural wine makers, it’s really best not to have a schedule! We left Griottes quite late, and it was at least a 2 hour drive to Robinot’s, so we didn’t arrive until around 2200 (10pm) that evening. Nevertheless, we were greeted by the very energetic Jean-Pierre and his wonderful wife Noella. He immediately took us into the cellar where we began to sample his 2009 harvest of Pineau d’Aunis right from the fiberglass containers where they had just finished fermenting. We started with the 2009 
Concerto d’Oniss which was fermented using purchased grapes from farmers (and friends) who have the same values and ideals in the vineyards as he does. This “basic” wine of his will be bottled straight from the fiberglass tank and spend no time in any other container. Wines made from purchased grapes go into bottles labeled under the product line “L’Opera des Vins”. This is one of my favorite of Robinot’s wines due to the clean, precise fruit and no oak influences.
We also tasted the just finished fermenting wine from grapes growing in Jean-Pierre’s own vineyards which will for the most part spend some time in oak before being bottled with labels indicating that the grapes were his own by the product line “Les Vignes de L’Ange Vin (L’Ange Vin for short)”. These were so stunning that I feel confident when I say that the 2009 vintage for Jean-Pierre Robinot will be top!
After a few quick hours in the cellar tasting the new wines, we retreated back to the home of Jean-Pierre and Noella, where Noella started to cook a wonderful home-cooked meal which consisted of vegetables from their “natural garden”. Grown in the same way their grapes are grown, the vegetables are left to grow “wild” without the use of any chemicals nor fertilizers. We started dinner at around 130am, which I must admit was probably the latest dinner I had ever had! Jean-Pierre’s energy never faltering!
The totally natural, totally awesome Robinot vegetable garden
The totally natural, totally awesome Robinot vegetable garden
The totally natural, totally awesome Robinot vegetable garden
The totally natural, totally awesome Robinot vegetable garden
Jean-Pierre’s labels for his wine bottles are reproductions of his full-size paintings which are scattered through-out the Robinot home. It’s obvious that when Jean-Pierre is not hard at work with his vine and wine, he is painting, his other passion. His labels are all different, unique and my opinion, very beautiful.
Jean-Pierre Robinot's label paintings - absoultely beautiful
Jean-Pierre Robinot's label paintings - absoultely beautiful
Jean-Pierre Robinot's label paintings - absoultely beautiful
Jean-Pierre Robinot's label paintings - absoultely beautiful
Jean-Pierre Robinot's label paintings - absoultely beautiful
The next day, we had a quick lunch together as Jean-Pierre hurriedly ate so that he could be off to great a small group of Japanese wine tourists who were looking forward to tasting Robinot’s wonderful wines. It seems that the Japanese really appreciate and understand natural wines. After lunch, Noella took us to see the vineyards, and I have to say, they were truly a sight. Now I have seen many vineyards including biodynamic ones, but these had to be the most natural vineyards I have ever seen. The vineyards that in my opinion were the most stunning, were his old-vine Pineau d’Aunis. These 100 year-old+ vines where growing in a field of weeds, they were covered in moss and ivy and looked absolutely at home there. She mentioned that the vineyards were the laughing-stock of his conventional neighbors, yet produced the greatest grapes in the area by far. When walking through the vineyards, I couldn’t help but notice the way the soil was soft and just gave way under the weight of my body. The soil was very much alive, and the bugs and insect in the area were proof of this. By contrast, when we walked through the vines of the neighboring vineyards, it was like walking on cement. The soil was extremely packed and dead. Not a bug in sight. Soils that have been killed by the use of chemicals take years and years to recover. I am told that even 10 years after converting the agriculture to organics, the soil is still not completely alive.
Jean-Pierre Robinot's 100 Year-Old+ Pineau d'Aunis Vineyard
Jean-Pierre Robinot's 100 Year-Old+ Pineau d'Aunis Vineyard
Jean-Pierre Robinot's 100 Year-Old+ Pineau d'Aunis Vineyard
Jean-Pierre Robinot's 100 Year-Old+ Pineau d'Aunis Vineyard
Jean-Pierre Robinot's 100 Year-Old+ Pineau d'Aunis Vineyard
Jean-Pierre Robinot's 100 Year-Old+ Pineau d'Aunis Vineyard
After our vineyard tour, we met with Jean-Pierre in his cellars to taste from the barrels. We tasted at least 40 wines ranging from his top reds, base whites (Chenin Blanc) to some of his sweet wines and even some Vin-Jaune-like wines that had been in barrel for 5 years and more and had developed the wonderful flor that develops in the wines of Jerez and the Jura. Jean-Pierre left us to run off to Paris for the weekend, where we were to meet again on Saturday night for dinner!
We spent two nights at the Robinot’s modest home where were fed only vegetables from their garden and meat from friends who had raised the animals in a natural environment. For their hospitality, I am completely grateful. They were extremely gracious hosts. Simple, yet complex people who truly lived off the land and who enjoyed every moment.
My final thoughts about the wines of Robinot are that his wines are dark, haunting, complex, while maintaining a certain freshness and drinkability which I find too many wines lack. His wines are not easy to understand and are full of mystery, as are the Robinot’s
Our wine list now boasts 19 titles that are made without the use of any sulfur what so ever. This is by far the largest selection of wines made without sulfur in Norway. I am not including in this number, nor am I placing the NO SO2 symbol next to, any wine that has had minimal use of sulfur during the wine making process, but none added at bottling. Had I included these titles, there would have been an additional 4 or 5 titles. I feel it’s important to mention that these natural wines don’t merely make it on the wine list for looks. We sell these natural, un-sulfured wines on a daily basis.
New wines added to our wine list for the month of December (all of these titles except the Clos Roche Blanche and the Erbaluna will received the NO SO2 symbol!):
- Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Ste Geneviève Extra Brut NV – Burgundy, France
- Clos des Vignes du Maynes Mâcon Cruzille Blanc 2007- Burgundy, France
- Clos des Vignes du Maynes Mâcon Cruzille Rouge 2007- Burgundy, France
- Bressan Pinot Grigio 2004 – Fruili-Venezia Giulia, Italy
- Camillo Donati Malvasia Secco 2008 – Emilia Romagna, Italy
- Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Pineau d’Aunis (Rosé) 2008 – Loire, France
- Domaine Le Mazel Cuvée Larmande 2006 – Rhône Valley, France
- Jean-Pierre Robinot Concerto d’Oniss 2006 – Loire Valley, France
- Erbaluna Barolo Vigna Rocche 1999 – Piemonte, Italy
I have uploaded the December updated wine list which can now be viewed here
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The "Wine List" at Racines natural wine bar & restaurant, Paris
Monday, November 2nd 2009
After having lunch with Jean-Marc Brignot (Jura) at Racines in Paris, where we consumed a 2002 skin-macerated Riesling from Alsace produced by Gérard Schueller with a gorgeous plate of pork, we headed for the Loire Valley. Our destination was Domaine Griottes, an approximate 5 hour drive south and West of Paris. Since their wine “P’tite Gâterie” (here’s a tasting note for this wine) had been on my wine list for the past 6 months, this was a visit I was looking forward to.
Domaine des Griottes label detail with logo
Domaine Griottes is located in the small village of Saint Lambert du Lattay. Located in the Loire Valley (within the Anjou appellation) about 26km south of Angers, 175km from the West Coast. Patrick Desplats & Sébastien Dervieux are growing and making delicious wines from an almost unheard of local variety called Pineau d’Aunis. A grape that made wines consumed by the nobility between the 13th and 15th centuries, it has almost completely disappeared from the Loire Valley save for some brave & passionate wine makers like Patrick and Sébastien. The grape produces some of the most exciting spicy red wines with aromas of grapefruit and pencil shavings. In my opinion, Domaine Griottes make some of the best examples in the Loire Valley from this grape. (Griottes also produces whites from the Chenin Blanc grape). All work in the vineyards and harvesting is done by hand with the help of Patrick’s ageing horse, Caroline. Grapes are subsequently fermented in fiberglass. The P’tite Gâterie is then bottled, while the rest of the red cuvée’s and the whites spend some time in oak after fermentation. Although the use of oak is moderate and these wines are great, the oak is detectable and not entirely to my palate.
Patrick Desplats
We arrived around 2100 (9pm) and were quickly greeted by a very outgoing Patrick Desplats, a table full of things to eat
naturally fermenting apple sauce
and of course wine by the magnum pouring.
We tasted all of the wines from previous vintages. Stunning wines all the way through the gamma, even the oak-influenced wines had stunning fruit qualities that could have only come from extremely healthy grapes that were subsequently spontaneously fermented, aged and bottled without even a milligram of sulfur! My kind of wines.
Tuesday, November 3rd 2009
After a good night’s rest at Patrick’s house, we came down for a nice breakfast where we got to sample some of his home-dried natural teas made from various flowers and herbs growing in his yard. Very inspirational! We then headed over to the vineyards to see where his Pinea d’Aunis and Chenin Blanc was growing. In some of their vineyards, the two grapes were growing together, side by side. We shared a glass of wine with Patrick as we looked over the Loire Valley and talked about the nature and how passionate he was about what he was doing and the nature around him. He and Sébastien had actually purchased a piece of forest separating his vineyards from the vineyards on the other side of the river. He wanted to keep the conventionally farmed vineyards as far away from his as possible.
As the sun began to set, we headed over to his winery and sampled his 2009’s directly from the fiberglass tanks. The fermentation was just finished. At this time, his 2009’s seem to be stunning. Fantastically concentrated wines with incredible amounts of structure while they were still light and fresh. His P’tite Gâterie (which is a blend of Pinea d’Aunis, Gamay and Grouillot, the amounts, and grapes, varying from vintage to vintage) will be bottled directly from the fiberglass tank it was fermented in. His other cuvées like La Griotte, will spend some time in oak before being bottled. After tasting the current vintage and as we headed towards the door to leave, we noticed a tank of SO2 hanging from the ceiling where Patrick had placed it to express his dislike of sulfur!
New titles on the list:
- Domaine Moreau-Naudet Chablis “Les Pargues Vieilles Vignes” 2006 – Burgundy, cialis France
- Pierre Frick Gewurztraminer Steinert Grand Cru 2003 – Alsace, here France
- Domaine Le Mazel Cuvée Raoul 2007- new vintage! – Rhône, France
- Erbaluna Rosso VdT (no added sulfur) 2007 – Piemonte, Italy
- Podere le Boncie “Le Boncie 5” 2007 – Toscana, Italy
-cheers!!
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