It’s been 6 years since the release of this movie and everyone still talks about Pinot Noir. In fact, to most wine connoisseurs, there is no more seductive grape than the Pinot Noir. We knew this before the movie, and we still know it today. I too am a sucker for the great Burgundian Pinot Noir. It’s a grape that can truly seduce with aromas of raspberries, cherries, forest floor and even flowers. The Pinot Noir’s high acidity gives the wine freshness and longevity. When you drink a truly great Pinot Noir, it can make you smile.
This being said folks, it’s time to move on and say “I’m not drinking any fucking Pinot Noir!” It’s time to give other (red) grapes a chance. Other grapes that I often look to to seduce me and make me smile! Even getting me to jump out of my chair! So what grapes am I talking about? Which grapes am I drinking most often these days?? Read ON!!
What about Gamay? Gamay finds it’s home in a few areas (mostly) in France and in the hands of the right grower, can seduce. Clos Roche Blanche in the Loire. Jean-Marc Brignot , Jean Foillard, Clos des Vignes du Maynes & Jean-Paul Brun (to name only a few) in Burgundy. I’m told that Edmunds St. John also makes an interesting Gamay in California, though I have not yet tasted it. The Gamay-based wines are incredibly fresh, dominated by red fruits and hints of spice. Thanks to the low(er) alcohol often found in these wines, their drinkablility is beyond compare!
What about Pinau d’Aunis? Found in the western parts of the Loire Valley, this once noble grape is slowly making a comeback thanks to Domaine Griottes, Clos Roche Blanche (try their Rosé!) & Jean-Pierre Robinot to name a few. With it’s truly seductive (and unmistakable) aromas of pencil lead, grapefruit and incense-like aromas, these incredibly fresh and light wines seduce me every time and this grape is quickly climbing to the top of my favorite (red) grapes list.
What about Schioppettino? Found in the far reaches of Friuli (near the Slovenian border), and until more recently, an unheard of grape for me. Then along came Fulvio Bressan with his “little firecracker”, the Schioppettino. Dominated by black pepper, minerals and black fruit while remaining fresh, this certainly is a grape to put on your top list of grapes to try!
What about Poulsard? Mainly found around the town of Pupillin in the Jura (just east of Burgundy), this thin-skinned red grape produces light colored wines which can be a bit reductive at first. Once open, brilliant, high-acidity and red fruit mark these delicate wines. These wines are a great fit for the local charcuterie & smoked sausage. Try the wines of Jean-Marc Brignot, Tissot and Overnoy to get a good taste for what this red grape can produce!
And let’s not forget the Nerello Mascalese! This Sicilian (Mt.Etna) grape is responsible for making wines like Frank Cornelissen’s Magma and Munjebel Rosso. Aroma’s that fit nicely between the Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo grapes. Aromatic wines with loads of freshness and solid tannins. Certainly not a grape to pass up if you have the opportunity to taste it. Great potential for aging – if you’re into that.
So, it time to starts saying “If anybody orders Pinot Noir, I’m leaving!” and time to start tasting some new grapes! Tell me about your favorite red grape(s)?
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Date tasted: June 9th, 2009I have written before about Frank Cornelissen. To refresh your memory, click here for one of my previous tasting notes and more about Frank.
I may not have mentioned this before, but I feel very fortunate to live in Norway when it comes to wine. We do get our hands on some pretty obscure and rare wines that very few other places in the world get. This wine is no exception. The 2002 was his second vintage in which he produced about 2000 bottles total between the 3 Magma’s and one Rosso del Contadino. In this vintage, Frank Cornelissen produced 3 different single-vineyard bottling’s of the Magma 2. The Calderara, Trefiletti and the Marchesa vineyards. Approximately 1300 bottles of the Magma’s were produced. That’s it.
The Marchesa vineyard is an ungrafted vineyard which is normally very sun exposed and has a good balance between tannins and density. According to Frank, this was a “backward” vintage, and therefore the alcohol was rather low, even harvesting as late as November 2nd. Harvest of the Nerello Mascalese grapes are done by hand and the grapes are foot trodden. The wine was fermented in Amphorae buried in the ground up to the neck (to keep the Amphorae from exploding during fermentation). Only indigenous yeasts are used of course, and the wine is left to macerate with the skins for between 5 and 6 months. The wine is bottled directly from the Amphorae without fining nor filtration. Nothing is added nor taken. No added SO2.
504 bottles of the Magma 2 Marchesa were produced, approximately 150 came to Norway. Like I said, I feel fortunate to live in Norway. Price at time of release, 1000 Norwegian Kroner ($155).
Bottle opened at 22:45:
Appearance: Very light red but within 15 minutes darkening to a darkish purple, black then going back to red again within a few minutes. This is certainly a “living wine”.
Nose: Crushed rose pedals, dark plums, rose hips. Very farmyard, especially dead sheep (the specific dead sheep comparison came from my two Norwegian friends who were tasting with me). Wild, sour, small cherries. Hints of dark cocoa. Hints of Macadamia nuts, eucalyptus. Much more tight and precise than it was the first time I tasted this wine back in 2006. If you breath in deeply, hints of prune juice without the dried fruit aspect.
Palate: Extremely concentrated but very light and fresh with red fruit dominating. Within a few seconds, the tannins arrived and held firmly. None of us could sense the 13.7% alcohol, it was extremely well integrated. The acidity was medium plus and very ripe and “sweet”, but the wine is bone dry. Hints of plums that have been picked a week before being over ripe, the fruit is very ripe. No dried fruit evident. Sour fruits. Every sip seems different and has you going back for another. The wine will most likely run out before we finish analyzing this bottle. There is a slight nuttiness on the finish with super-ripe fruit that lingers and these two aromas add incredible complexity to the wine. One of the most fantastic and interesting wines I have ever tasted, again.
23:15:
Tannins really stepping up, but not dominating. More nutty macadamia’s starting to show.
23:30:
This is the hard part of this entry, having to write and report the following:
The wine seems to be “dying”. The finish seems to fade quickly now. The 3 tasters all agreed that the wine was now dead. Perhaps if we had waited, and if we had any wine left, the wine would have come back alive. I am not sure. I should also mention that this wine was not stored perfectly.
To conclude, I feel that this wine will throw many old school wine people off. I believe they will most likely say that the nutty aspects of the wine are signs of oxidation and therefore this wine is not a good wine, and therefore not well-made. This being said, you have to remember that when judging a wine, you must do so as objectively as possible. You cannot let your personal opinion of weather or not you like the wine enter into the equation. There are many well-made wines that I just don’t like, that doesn’t change the fact that the wines are well made.
The facts about the Magma 2 Marchesa are that this wine is well made, has tremendous concentration, complex aromas both on the nose and palate, is extremely well-balanced and the finish seems to never end. These are
facts that are undeniable and in my opinion reflect an excellent, well-made wine. Don’t get distracted by the nutty aromas and forget the aforementioned quality attributes.
Translation of back label:
Ingredients: Only Nerello Mascalese Grapes from the 2002 harvest without the addition of any other ingredient.
Attention: This wine has not been modified. It doesn’t contain stabilizers nor preservatives. There will be a natural deposit because the wine has been bottled without filtration. It’s important to store the bottle at temperature of less than 16°C (60.8° F). It’s recommended to not decant.
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