We enjoyed this wine with Patrick Desplats (Griottes) and his girlfriend Gaëlle Berriau who happened to be visiting me at Jacob’s for the weekend. I don’t know much about the wine, but here is what I do know. It’s from the Jura, a blend of Savagnin (white) and Poulsard (red) with no treatments in the vineyards, spontaneously fermented of course, carbonic maceration (at least semi), long maceration, no temperature control, no enzymes, no treatments, no clarification, no filtration or sulfur. 2008 vintage and 12.5.5 % alcohol
One thing we all agreed on (since the 6 of us had tasted this wine more than once, in fact, I was the “virgin” in the group having only tasted it two times before), was that this was a “good” bottle and drinking beautifully.
Date tasted: Saturday March 5th, 2011 around 22:30
Appearance: wow… what can i say? Red, white and something in between.
- arbutus fruit
Nose: What can I say?! The sort of aromas that not only jump out of the glass, but never fail to make me jump out of my seat with excitement! Aromas that can only come from the very best spontaneously fermented grapes.. It’s a smell that a group of friends and I have always called that “sponty smell”. This wine had it, and I love it..Very high intensity, even though slightly reductive at first. Pink grapefruit, sweet tomato juice (clear), slightly spicy, arbutus fruit (see photo), blood orange (and peel), brie de meux.
Palate: A slight tingle on the tongue on entry. Very mineral, with fresh blood orange-like fruit. Also blood orange peel bitterness on the finish, but very slight and very pleasant. Texture like oil (same sort of texture in Robinot’s Concerto d’Oniss). High acidity, but mature, juicy and very (too) drinkable. Medium, feminine tannins. Very long finish. A stunner
Now to get my hands on another bottle…hmmmm..
Wanna read more about the Jura, Molamboz and Jean-Marc Brignot?
And if my words aren’t enough, here is a short video I shot of Patrick Desplats as he tastes the wine! The video is in English and in French. Even if you don’t understand French, his expressions say it all!
Patrick Desplats of Domaine Griottes from vinosseur on Vimeo.
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It’s been 6 years since the release of this movie and everyone still talks about Pinot Noir. In fact, to most wine connoisseurs, there is no more seductive grape than the Pinot Noir. We knew this before the movie, and we still know it today. I too am a sucker for the great Burgundian Pinot Noir. It’s a grape that can truly seduce with aromas of raspberries, cherries, forest floor and even flowers. The Pinot Noir’s high acidity gives the wine freshness and longevity. When you drink a truly great Pinot Noir, it can make you smile.
This being said folks, it’s time to move on and say “I’m not drinking any fucking Pinot Noir!” It’s time to give other (red) grapes a chance. Other grapes that I often look to to seduce me and make me smile! Even getting me to jump out of my chair! So what grapes am I talking about? Which grapes am I drinking most often these days?? Read ON!!
What about Gamay? Gamay finds it’s home in a few areas (mostly) in France and in the hands of the right grower, can seduce. Clos Roche Blanche in the Loire. Jean-Marc Brignot , Jean Foillard, Clos des Vignes du Maynes & Jean-Paul Brun (to name only a few) in Burgundy. I’m told that Edmunds St. John also makes an interesting Gamay in California, though I have not yet tasted it. The Gamay-based wines are incredibly fresh, dominated by red fruits and hints of spice. Thanks to the low(er) alcohol often found in these wines, their drinkablility is beyond compare!
What about Pinau d’Aunis? Found in the western parts of the Loire Valley, this once noble grape is slowly making a comeback thanks to Domaine Griottes, Clos Roche Blanche (try their Rosé!) & Jean-Pierre Robinot to name a few. With it’s truly seductive (and unmistakable) aromas of pencil lead, grapefruit and incense-like aromas, these incredibly fresh and light wines seduce me every time and this grape is quickly climbing to the top of my favorite (red) grapes list.
What about Schioppettino? Found in the far reaches of Friuli (near the Slovenian border), and until more recently, an unheard of grape for me. Then along came Fulvio Bressan with his “little firecracker”, the Schioppettino. Dominated by black pepper, minerals and black fruit while remaining fresh, this certainly is a grape to put on your top list of grapes to try!
What about Poulsard? Mainly found around the town of Pupillin in the Jura (just east of Burgundy), this thin-skinned red grape produces light colored wines which can be a bit reductive at first. Once open, brilliant, high-acidity and red fruit mark these delicate wines. These wines are a great fit for the local charcuterie & smoked sausage. Try the wines of Jean-Marc Brignot, Tissot and Overnoy to get a good taste for what this red grape can produce!
And let’s not forget the Nerello Mascalese! This Sicilian (Mt.Etna) grape is responsible for making wines like Frank Cornelissen’s Magma and Munjebel Rosso. Aroma’s that fit nicely between the Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo grapes. Aromatic wines with loads of freshness and solid tannins. Certainly not a grape to pass up if you have the opportunity to taste it. Great potential for aging – if you’re into that.
So, it time to starts saying “If anybody orders Pinot Noir, I’m leaving!” and time to start tasting some new grapes! Tell me about your favorite red grape(s)?
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Located East of Burgundy approaching Switzerland, the Jura is perhaps more “known” for it’s white wines made with the Chardonnay and Savagnin grapes. For example, the slightly oxidized, “flor-enhanced” Vin Jaune. However the “reds” made with the Poulsard grape (as found in this bottle), are perhaps more interesting.. At least to me..
After Pierre Overnoy retired, the Houillon family took over the domain. They have continued in the same manner as Overnoy (from what I understand). That is, as close to natural viticulture as possible and the same goes for the wine making. No added anything here, not even my least favorite friend, Sulfur Dioxide. I have tasted both the reds and the whites of Overnoy and I have to say they are amongst my favorite wines… of all time, placing comfortably in my top 9 list (coming soon!) of all time favorites.
For many years, the only wines of the Jura I had tasted had been those of Tissot. Although the wines of Tissot are good, they don’t approach the quality of Overnoy’s wines in my opinion. Tissot’s wines can seem a bit “dirty” by comparison (again, my opinion).
Date tasted: Sunday February 21, 2010 18:45 (6:45pm) – Decanted
WOW!!!!
and…… 1 hour and 15 minutes later @ 20:00 (8pm)
HUH???
When I first opened this wine – it was exactly as I remembered it and expected it to be. A gorgeous, light red color not unlike what fresh squeezed raspberries or cranberries might look like. In fact, the similarities don’t stop here. The nose was of pure, fresh raspberries and cranberries with delicate spices. Background aromas of cherries, stems and pits. It had that typical “sponty” (spontaneous) nose and was slightly volatile , in that way that we natural wine lovers really appreciate, helping those aromas float up to our noses. Slight animal and mineral tones also noted on the very back. The same was found on the palate.
This wine was very alive and it was making me jump out of my chair with every smell and with every taste.
BUT, within a little over an hour, my friend and I were looking at each other and asking “huh??”. What the hell happened! The wine was almost completely dead. I don’t normally decant a wine like this. So why the hell did I do it tonight? Was that the problem? First of all, I will never decant this wine again, just in case. Second, I will continue to drink the wines of Overnoy because they are so incredibly seductive. Finally, in the future I won’t take an hour to drink a bottle of Overnoy again! Oh, I should mention that I had only brought the wine back with me from France two weeks prior – travel sickness??
Cheers!
